Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Madrid, Day Five, June 28th.

Today, we visited the city of Segovia, the proud owner of the Roman aqueduct. It was mind-boggling to learn that this piece of architecture had been standing for over two thousand years, that it was still useable and had no mortar to support it. The Romans were amazing engineers, and I wonder if we would be capable of the same feat, even with modern technology. They certainly don't make buildings like they used to, and the Roman aqueduct is a primary example of brilliance of ancient architects.

While not quite as amazing, but equally as interesting, was the Alcázar castle. It was built by Muslims, but by the end of the 11th century, it was conquered by King Alfonso VI. What I find fascinating is the fact that Muslims were in Spain for centuries before the Spaniards reconquered the kingdom and essentially banished them. I was previously unaware of the heavy Arabic influence in Spain, and I find their conflict in history to be very interesting.

Like with the Palacio Real, the Alcázar had beautiful decorations inside, and many rooms that held suits of armor and old war weapons. It housed many kings and queens during its time, and is quite the important monument in history. It's hard to say which piece of construction I found to be the most interesting in Segovia, but I would probably have to choose the Alcázar, given all the things that occurred within it. I'm also very interested in the history between the Spaniards and the Muslims, and the warfare that occurred between them. Spain is a country filled with rich history, and Segovia is obviously a very historical city. I enjoyed learning about the great Roman architectures and the story behind the Alcázar.

Always a lover of medieval history, I was especially thrilled about the interior of the Alcázar, with its suits of armor, weaponry and artistic rooms. I also enjoyed the city of Segovia itself. Despite some of its modern stores, it seemed like a very historical city, similar to Toledo with its small, narrow streets that no car can pass through. I loved learning about the history of the old architectures, and hope to discover more in my class in Bilbao.

Madrid, Day Four, June 27th.

The first sight upon entering the Valley of the Fallen is the 500ft granite cross that towers above the trees and stretches to touch the sky. I was frantic with my camera, taking pictures of this amazing feat of construction, trying to wrap my mind around how such a thing could be built in the 1940's. Inside the building was another cathedral, and the holiness of it was once again evident, and the dim lights lent to a rather serious atmosphere. More interesting than the cross and the interior, however, was the history behind the Valley itself. It was ordered to construction by Franco, the old dictator of Spain, and I find myself very curious about this man and the Civil War. While all of Spanish history has become very interesting to me, I want to know more about the Civil War, and the Valley of the Fallen just intensified my curiosity. It was such a dark time in Spanish history, but I was only given vague details. Surely, it couldn't just be a battle between left and right, communism and fascism? I'll have to remember to research this later.

After the Valley of the Fallen was El Escorial, the palace ordered to be built by King Felipe the 2nd when he was no longer king. It was a rather sharp contrast to the artistic, wealthy Palacio Real, whereas El Escorial is rather austere in appearance. What I found to be the most interesting here was the gravesite beneath the building. It was built a century after the rest of El Escorial, and so the style of it was rather different than the rest. It was built with marble and gilded bronze, and was rather rich in appearance. An interesting fact I learned was that the bodies are now placed above acid in a wooden coffin, and left there for 20-25 years until they're nothing but bones, and only when they're bones can they be placed in the graves. I found this to be fascinating. What can I say? I enjoy the morbid.

While El Escorial was interesting, I still find Valley of the Fallen to be the most interesting out of the two sights, given the history behind it. How do the people of Spain even feel about Franco? Surely not warmly, and what are the details of the Civil War? These are questions I hope to have answered and will research myself because of the Valley of the Fallen.

Madrid, Day Three, June 26th.

Toledo is a city that emanates history.

Walking through that labyrinth of a city, I could practically breathe the history and the culture that was so thick there. Even the way it looked was significantly historic, with its cobblestone paths, labyrinthine streets and old buildings. The Gothic cathedral was especially impressive, and had the greatest effect on me. It's always mind-blowing, imagining how these fantastic structures were built without the aid of modern technology.

Inside the Gothic cathedral, the art was immensely impressive. It took my breath away. The air seemed thicker inside, heavy with the sacred holiness of the place. It was a very important cathedral, and continued to remain so even in the modern times. The gorgeous, artistic window that shed light into the cathedral was just something you'd have to see in order to believe that it was real. The sacred artifacts, so priceless that they cannot be bought, were amazing to look at, as if I was witnessing history itself. The scriptures of the monks, the golden Ostentorio used for celebrations... I was fascinated with Spanish history, and enjoyed learning about the ever-prevalent religious influence. Toledo is a city of three cultures. Muslim, Christian, and Jewish, and imagining how they all must've clashed was rather interesting. I also learned more about the Inquisition, a rather dark time in the history of Spain.

Later, we viewed the masterpiece of Goya, the Burial of Lord Orgaz. Goya has become one of my favorite artists, not only because of his Black Paintings, but also his style and his use of dark colors. I enjoyed learning about Lord Orgaz and the many religious tales of miracles that permeate throughout the Spanish culture. These important myths are rather telling of the culture itself, such as the story about the man who defended Lady Mary's virginity and received a miracle when she herself came down from heaven and saw him.

I wanted to stay in Toledo longer, the old capital of Spain, and learn more about its important history. I could see why it is a treasure of Spain.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Madrid, Day Two, June 25th

I've always loved architecture, and the Palacio Real was a gorgeous piece of work. However, the outside of it was no match for the inside, and I sorely wish I would've been able to take pictures. The regal rooms, filled with elaborate decorations, stunning artwork, painted ceilings and gigantic chandeliers was simply breathtaking. Imagine, actually living in a place like this! I could hardly wrap my mind around the concept. As beautiful as the palace was, I don't think I'd ever be able to comfortably live in such an... elegant environment. After all, it wouldn't seem at all acceptable to trudge through those artistic corridors in my wrinkled pajamas.

I eagerly listened to the tour guide, trying to imagine a time of king and queens. The history of Spain was fascinating to me... the king that had fallen in love with his cousin, the clock-collecting Carlos, the way the palace had been built as a defense against Christians... I was swept away in a tide of history, overwhelmed and eager to know more. First, we took a short break in the Plaza Mayor, and I was absolutely delighted in the performances and the Disney figures walking about. It felt more cultural, seeing these little shops and performances of Spain.

Afterwards, the museum slaked some of my thirst for knowledge. I enjoyed learning about the paintings as much as I enjoyed looking at them. I have to say, however, that my favorite artist by far was Goya and his series of Black Paintings. As an admirer of the morbid and the human mind, looking upon Goya's transformation from regal, royal family portraits to these rather disconcerting Black Paintings was simultaneously unsettling and fascinating. I was told that he painted these on the wall, and I imagined him doing so. Fingers, dripping in black paint, sweeping across the wall with steady precision, transforming the once blank wall into the god Saturn, his teeth gnawing and his greedy hands clutching the bloodied body of his own son...

It hadn't taken long for me to grow fond of Madrid. It was a different experience, an exciting city, and still I looked forward to seeing more.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Travel Journals

(In Madrid, I was required to write travel journals for each day I was there. I have five of them, I'll post a new one everyday.)

Madrid, Day One, June 24th

I'm not sure what I was expecting upon first arriving in Madrid. I awakened from the sleep lulled on by the bus and found that there was a city outside the windows. From the first glimpse, I could see that Madrid would be nothing like Bilbao. The towering, metropolitan city, with its modern architecture, packed streets, busy sidewalks and numerous American corporations, it was the absolute opposite next to modest little Bilbao.

Truth be told, it reminded me of America, and not in the refreshing way. While the large, bustling city was fantastic in its own right, it didn't quite feel like the escape from America that the rest of Spain had provided so far. But I was being judgmental, really. I was hungry, tired, and the hotter weather in Madrid was going to take some adjusting to.

Reminding myself to keep my judgments reserved until I knew the city better, I went along with the group into Hotel Regina, pleased to see a rather regal, modern place and a comfortable room. After arriving, a group of students and I set about to explore the city, determined not to be lazy on the first day here. All the construction going on reminded me of home.

In Reno, there are two seasons: winter and construction. It looked similar in Madrid.

After an unimportant excursion in Corte Inglés – I'm not much of a shopper, and once you shop one place, you shop everywhere – the group and I went to the Museum of Architecture. This was a much more interesting visit, and I delighted in looking at the exhibits. I looked at prehistoric, protohistoric, egyptian and medieval items alike, and I remain consistently fascinated with all the information history has to offer. I thought that I was going to look forward to exploring more of Madrid's museum, getting a taste of the history.

After the museum, the group and I returned to the hotel, where I met my roommate Adrianna, a friendly girl joining me in the Bilbao program. The rest of the night was unexciting, and after dinner, us weary students returned to bed. I was looking forward to seeing more of Madrid, and hopefully coming to love it as much as I had grown to love Bilbao.